Memories Made On the Muddy Wrestling Grounds of Varanasi

In the day and age when going to gyms and following a fitness regime is more of a fad and a means to grab eyeballs, there exists a form of exercise that is almost an act of worship. Yep, you read that right! Kushti or pehlwani is a traditional form of wrestling that the people of Varanasi revere. It is not only performed to keep oneself fit but also to stay rooted and disciplined. Recently, I had the opportunity to explore the wrestling grounds or Akhadas of Varanasi. My Varanasi tour package included a visit to the famous Tulsi Akhada and the chance to get up close and personal with the wrestlers, making my week-long excursion one to be remembered for a long time. Keep reading to see how the tour unfolded for me and what is in store for you if you ever wish to share the same experience.

The Fascinating History of the Akhadas

Akhadas refer to traditional wrestling grounds that are the site for wrestlers practicing and playing the sport of pehlwani or kushti. If legends are to be believed, Lord Hanuman once challenged Makardhwaja to a wrestling match to rescue Lord Rama and Lakshmana from Ahiravan’s clutches. He emerged victorious, successfully completing his mission. Hence, all Akhadas have an image of Lord Hanuman who is worshiped before every match to provide the wrestlers with strength and stability.

Why Go on an Akhada Tour?

Truth be told, visiting the muddy wrestling grounds of India and seeing the local people indulge in the art of wrestling that differs significantly from its Western counterpart was never a part of my bucket list. But when I decided to visit Varanasi for a vacation, I was advised that going to an Akhada is one of the most popular things to do in Varanasi. Always eager to try new things, I grabbed the opportunity and embarked on a week-long journey where each day was a new experience. In just a couple of days, I was sure that not only was it a humbling exercise that brought me closer to a unique Indian culture and tradition but, in many ways, it also taught me to stay connected with nature. Seeing the wrestlers practice the sport with the utmost integrity and dedication invoked a new-found zeal in me, motivating me to nurture my body, heart, and soul equally.

A Sneak-Peek Into Varanasi’s Tulsi Akhada

While the first day of the tour was spent traveling and settling in my new abode for the week—a comfy hotel in the Spiritual Capital of India, Day 2 was when the tour really began in its true sense. With the first rays of the sun shining upon us, we drove to Tulsi Ghat which is located on the banks of river Ganga and is home to the widely renowned Tulsi Akhada. This particular Akhada is famous for producing several well-known wrestlers. What’s even more interesting is that the site was set up by Goswami Tulsidas, the author of the epic poem Ramcharitmanas, and is nearly 500 years old!

Unlike modern-day gyms, the Tulsi Akhada comprises a shed atop a rustic floor of mud whose pillars are adorned with the words ‘Shri Ram’ to show respect and devotion to Lord Rama. The space outside the shed is utilized for open-air exercises. I was surprised to see a unique set of equipment that looked nothing like the ones we generally use for our fitness regime. Instead, the Akhada housed various heavy wooden things painted in red. These included Gada or mace, Naal or wheel around the neck, Jodi or two long weights that are rotated around the body, and Santulan, a piece of balancing equipment.

Just a glance at the site and all that it housed left me super excited. I was ready for a captivating time in one of the most underrated places to visit in Varanasi—the Tulsi Akhada!

Chronicling a Day at the Tulsi Akhada

If you think a day at an Akhada follows the same trajectory as a day in any gym then you are in for a surprise! Unlike contemporary sites for physical activities, an Akhada is synonymous with a place of worship, especially for the wrestlers who visit the place religiously. Every element present in the Akhada holds a deeper meaning and significance for the people there. The soil, for instance, is not just some mud used to add friction to a well-oiled body. It is considered as sacred as the bhasma or ash on Lord Shiva’s body! The proceedings at the Akhada never begin without lighting incense and paying respect to Lord Hanuman and Rama. The Akhada is treated as a holy place where the wrestlers till the soil with their own hands to prepare the ground for the training session. Water and flowers are sprinkled on the soil to further establish its sanctity and significance. After oiling their bodies, the wrestlers enter the arena, and each match begins with a resounding sound of Jai Bajrangbali or Victory to Lord Hanuman. Once the mock matches and training sessions are over, the wrestlers get back to their daily lives, leaving the Akhada with the hope of starting afresh the next day.

A Week Full of Thrilling Activities

My first day at the Tulsi Akhada began with a fun introductory session. The meet and greet allowed me the chance to get acquainted with the senior-most instructor or guru who displayed perfect form and agility even at an evidently older age. Years of practice and commitment were clearly visible in every move he made. He, along with all the other wrestlers, wore just a red loincloth or langot, keeping the rest of their body unrestrained.

The week started slow with a brief introduction to the basics of the sport but just a few days into the tour, I was already training under the able guidance of a master trainer who kept a watchful eye on each of our moves. During the course of this one-of-a-kind Varanasi tour, I was made familiar with a wide set of tricks and tactics. The subsequent practice sessions with my experienced colleagues on the ring helped me perfect at least a few of them, if not all. In the last few days, I was made to practice with the unique traditional equipment that had always grabbed my attention.

The most remarkable point in these 7 days was the day of the competition! The final fight after a series of mock practice fights is a highlight that stays with you for a long time. What’s most fascinating is that even though each wrestler is extremely tough, they show a unique blend of dignity and calmness on the wrestling ground which is a sight to behold. While it is oh-so-difficult to excel in kushti which requires years of hard training and practice, I definitely learned a lesson or two in self-discipline and maintaining a calm mind.

In the end, it was time to bid adieu to my Indian brethren who I had grown fond of during the week. I and my friends were presented with a souvenir by My Flight Trip (a picture of Lord Hanuman) to remember this tour. While the time spent at the Akhada is a cherished memory that I will look back on fondly, the picture is a beautiful tangible reminder of the unparalleled feeling that stays within my heart!

Looking back in time, chronicling my days at the Tulsi Akhada, all I can say is going on the Varanasi Akhada tour is an experience you should not miss! Give the done-to-death travel plans a break and try something unique for a change. You will thank me for it.